Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Posts: 346 Location: Mandurah, WA
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 11:57 pm Post subject:
After I found out this service had stopped I thought all was lost. I found out a guy on soarerworld also did the service but was in the UK and was considerably more expensive. So I had a look on toyodiy.com and got the original part number (47950-24020) and rang Toyota, they wanted $870... I ended up putting in a quote request to Amayama.com and found out they could get the part brand new from Australia and it would cost $188.79 + $9.96 for delivery. Woo -hoo! So I immediatly made a payment and a few days later the part arrived. I followed havabeer's method for removal but made my own simple tool which was a decent length of flat bar with two 6mm holes drilled in one end 60mm apart, I then found some unused 6mm x 15mm long bolts and attached them through the holes with some nuts to secure them. After removing the cruise motor I put the tool into the dip's in top of the accumulator and a few rags on top of the drivers side guard to protect it, now put my hand on the end of the tool to secure it in the dip's and lent on the bar with my hip and voilą! success! After putting everything back together I started the car and immediately noticed that the ABS was not pulsing anymore, I went for a test drive and had no problems, the hand brake light was no longer on and the cruise control works again.
I hope this helps other people to get their car sorted. Cheers.
Best advice i have seen on this forum thus far. Afaik the recon ones are bound to leak out again anyway. Worth spending the $$$. _________________
Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Posts: 157 Location: Sydney, NSW
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 2:15 pm Post subject:
Hey guys, looks like I'm going to have to be doing this soon. I'm planning on just replacing the nitrogen canister and doing a full flush & bleed od the system.
I have a question though, do the new ones come with nitrogen in them or would they not be able to be shipped like that? If they don't come pressurised, then what are my options in terms of filling it with nitrogen?
I think the one your talking about is on the main piston for the master cylinder which means you should probably get a rebuild kit if you can or replace the master cylinder. The oring I referred to goes on the bottom of the canister where it screws in to stop fluid leaking around the bottom of the canister. _________________
Joined: 13 Oct 2012 Posts: 49 Location: North Sydney
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:55 pm Post subject:
I've just bought the various EPDM o-rings to do the reco and regass myself. I Have access to best private machine shop in Sydney.
I'm buying enough parts to do 2 nitro boosters, just getting the valve body and shraders this week.
Anybody want to donate a spare cannister so I can do the job without taking my Risty off the road? You'll get one back in a few weeks with new o-rings and a valve, and maybe nitrogen, but not 100% on that (will at least be ready to fill though)....... Just pay for shipping.
No warranty unfortunately, but it will be done to the best of ability with all the correct parts and i'll post photos of the job in a thread.
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