Joined: 30 Oct 2012 Posts: 5 Location: morisset NSW
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:13 pm Post subject: nitrogen accumulator overhaul/re-gas $150
Hi everyone. first post, but I'm just letting you know that I'm starting to offer nitrogen accumulator overhauls. so far I've done a handful of soarer ones, i hopefully will be receiving an aristo one sometime in the next week or two. if everything goes (parts wise etc) i'll hopefully offer this out to aristo owners aswell, just not 100% sure its the same part.
anyway this is a copy of the ad i placed on the soarercentral forum most of it should be relate-able
I'm willing to offer this service of re-gassing our nitrogen accumulators of our brake systems for $150. for $150 you will get:
your leaking accumulator taken apart and cleaned.
new nitrile o-rings installed.
2000psi nitrile schrader valve installed.
accumulator filled with 1000psi of nitrogen.
accumulator posted back to you.
i have already done this to my own car as per this thread:http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/285/364933.html?1345791857
you will need to post your accumulator to me, but will cover the cost of posting it back to you.
warranty wise i will cover cost's of shipping the item back for another overhaul if you can prove it was caused by workman ship. i will not take responsibility for damage caused during installation/dis assembly (though there's bugger all to damage) but you have to remember that this isn't a fancy business, just a guy doing this off his own back at work to try and help out the soarer community that's given me tons of information and things in the past.
it should only take me a maximum of 3 WORKING days to over haul the accumulator upon receiving it.
some symptoms your accumulator may need to be re gassed include
an odd sounding "chirp" down the steering wheel
brake error codes coming up when pressing the pedal going away upon depress
spongy brake pedal feel (i noticed mine firmed up quite a bit upon doing it)
So send me a pm as email will be the easiest way at the moment to organise things if you wish to take me up on this.
i might in the next day or two do a write up on how to get your accumulator out, but basically the accumulator is located on the drivers side next to the fluid resivor
under neath the black and yellow rubber cover.
the easiest way to remove it is to:
*leave the car
* pump the pedal about 40 times hard (this is crucial to relieve pressure)
* now you need to unscrew the accumulator.
* select your weapon of choice, i've read a couple of ways of people doing this, either with a pipe wrench/stilsons, oil filter removers, strap wrenches. i made my own tool which works ok but not great THE BEST AND CHEAPEST I"VE HEARD SO FAR IS AN ANGLE GRINDER NUT TOOL, WEDGE ONE TANG IN THE DIVOT AND THE OTHER AGAINST THE SCREW ON TOP AS A LEVER POINT
once you've got it moving (may take a bit of effort) unscrew the accumulator and place it in a vice or similar
with a flat head screw driver, undo the screw ontop SLOWLY!!! just until you start to hear the nitrogen coming out. just leave it until it's empty. please don't get impatient and undo it quickly you'll probably end up with a screw getting launched with the power of a 1000psi into you eye or something, just let it come out slowly)
and your done
i believe you SHOULD be all ok with our 147 canisters on par with soarer ones....?
i have a soarer unit in my car . complete BMC though..!! and good as gold... wish you the best of luck bloke.... you get this going by the "NUTS" ...and you will be getting some PM,s from here !
Please PM me as we will need to verify your credentials/identity as you are a new member here. Normally we wouldn't allow posters advertising without 15 posts but due to this service we can probably make an exception.
Also where are you located? Suggest you update your profile to include that information.
Joined: 30 Oct 2012 Posts: 5 Location: morisset NSW
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:35 pm Post subject:
yeah the leaking gas was the seal in the schrader valves i was using. i've found a supplier in aus that can sell me some 2000psi rated valve cores, as they use them on the some adjustable suspension setups.
honestly during my trail and error i was driving around on a near empty/low pressure accumulator and the brakes still held up fine. and yeah took a few dollars in the swear jar to get the accumulator out but the suggestion of the angle grinder nut undo-er seems like a good thing.
i'm located in morisset up on the central coast of NSW
Hey, my ABS unit almost always is constantly pumping but the brakes and ABS seem to work fine other than that. I can feel it pumping through the brake pedal as well as hearing it and causes a power drain (I noticed the light dim when it pumps). Do you think this is the same problem, would regassing possible fix this? Cheers. _________________
Hey, my ABS unit almost always is constantly pumping but the brakes and ABS seem to work fine other than that. I can feel it pumping through the brake pedal as well as hearing it and causes a power drain (I noticed the light dim when it pumps). Do you think this is the same problem, would regassing possible fix this? Cheers.
Yes, urs is out of nitrogen, most probably due to leaking seals. _________________
After I found out this service had stopped I thought all was lost. I found out a guy on soarerworld also did the service but was in the UK and was considerably more expensive. So I had a look on toyodiy.com and got the original part number (47950-24020) and rang Toyota, they wanted $870... I ended up putting in a quote request to Amayama.com and found out they could get the part brand new from Australia and it would cost $188.79 + $9.96 for delivery. Woo -hoo! So I immediatly made a payment and a few days later the part arrived. I followed havabeer's method for removal but made my own simple tool which was a decent length of flat bar with two 6mm holes drilled in one end 60mm apart, I then found some unused 6mm x 15mm long bolts and attached them through the holes with some nuts to secure them. After removing the cruise motor I put the tool into the dip's in top of the accumulator and a few rags on top of the drivers side guard to protect it, now put my hand on the end of the tool to secure it in the dip's and lent on the bar with my hip and voilą! success! After putting everything back together I started the car and immediately noticed that the ABS was not pulsing anymore, I went for a test drive and had no problems, the hand brake light was no longer on and the cruise control works again.
I hope this helps other people to get their car sorted. Cheers. _________________
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