red oil light flickers on cold start..?

 
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juniorARISTO
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 5:16 am    Post subject: red oil light flickers on cold start..? Reply with quote

iv been trying to find someone with the same prob...my red oil light flickers on a cold start then turns off dont have a prob after that....just does it when cold..changed oil aready...put 6qts of oil...checkt the oil level its fine.
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Richy
JZS147 Diehard


Joined: 05 Jul 2009
Posts: 581
Location: Townsville, QLD

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:09 am    Post subject: Re: red oil light flickers on cold start..? Reply with quote

juniorARISTO wrote:
iv been trying to find someone with the same prob...my red oil light flickers on a cold start then turns off dont have a prob after that....just does it when cold..changed oil aready...put 6qts of oil...checkt the oil level its fine.


This problem was fixed when i got my idle control valve fixed.
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Woggin
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

its normal for a motor to not have any oil pressure on start up, it takes a few seconds to build 'full' pressure due to the oils thickness!

happens to me sometimes, flickers for a second or two, its normal!
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Kame jzs147
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Joined: 06 Nov 2007
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Location: Montreal South Shore, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My cold starts are rough as hell as well, no matter what oil i put in. I usually use Royal Purple 10w30.

Oild light stays on for like 1-2 seconds and then she idles fines.

Whats with the idle valve thing ?
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Woggin
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kame jzs147 wrote:
My cold starts are rough as hell as well, no matter what oil i put in. I usually use Royal Purple 10w30.

Oild light stays on for like 1-2 seconds and then she idles fines.

Whats with the idle valve thing ?


it controls the amount of air entering the motor @ idle...if you look @ the back of the intake manifold, theres a circle black thingy, which has a pipe that leads to the turbo inlet pipe, the black circle thing is the ISCV (idle speed control valve) or IACV (idle air control valve) or IC (idle valve, but only idiots use this, as some other idiots think they talking bout intercoolers) anyways, it uses the TPS signal to try and set the idle, its supposed to be 750 +/- 50rpm, but i dont like it set that low, so i set mine between 850-950, anything below 850 or so and the alternator cant hold the voltage @ 14v+

the way to adjust the idle is to....sort of make the ecu think theres no difference in air entering, but by setting the idle position screw on the throttle body higher (so its open more) more air enters the motor, higher idle! since the TPS is still @ 0, it cant make the adjustment to lower it again...

a low idle will also means a LOWER base oil pressure, read LOWER not low, so i set it slightly higher and my base oil pressure is slightly higher! which means the oil pressure light goes out quicker, but it also comes down to motor wear and types of oil used! a really good brand of oil maybe really shit @ cold starts for oil pressure, whilst the exact opposite can occur with a really shit brand of oil!
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92 r32 gtst daily

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juniorARISTO
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks...you guys
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Chappo
'Ex Aristo Owner'


Joined: 30 Apr 2007
Posts: 4813
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be making sure that I pull it apart and clean it before you start adjusting the idle..
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Woggin
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chappo wrote:
I would be making sure that I pull it apart and clean it before you start adjusting the idle..


yea i started pulling it out, but once i got to the coolant lines, i sorta cbf'd, so i put it bak in Very Happy
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JZS147 stock snails 12.58@115, T04Z is here, still in beta!
92 r32 gtst daily

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gfunk
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Joined: 18 Jul 2011
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Location: Brisbane

PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys
I have this issue… On a cold start my engine coughs a little then idles fine
When it’s warm and I start it, no issues at all
I took out my IACV, I couldn’t get those 2 stupid screws undone so I just soaked/basted it with degreaser then put it back in. Do you think I need to replace the whole unit? I might turn the base idle up a little to see if this fixes the issue. I havent tried resetting the ECU yet but I doubt that will fix it.
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NICK 05
'Ex Aristo Owner'


Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Posts: 4387
Location: Banora Point/ gold coast NSW

PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well "gfunk" if you soaked the WHOLE unit in degreaser..? then YES...the chances are are you have fked up the unit ! it IS electronically controlled at the end of the day.

(tip....if you cannot get those stupid star/ 4 point screws out..? get a hacksaw blade and run a thick line though the head of the screws , so you can get a decent "blade" screwdriver on them , and get em loose.
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gfunk
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Joined: 18 Jul 2011
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Location: Brisbane

PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Nick

ok... I didn't soak the WHOLE thing just the inside. When I saw the screws weren't going to come out easily I just left them alone. I'll adjust the idle and if that doesnt change anything then I'll pull the IACV off again and give the screws a bit more...persuasion

Cheers Smile
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Woggin
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

on the throttle bodies theres a couple grub screws, you can adjust the idle wit those, thats how i did mine coz i cbf'd pulling the iacv out!
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JZS147 stock snails 12.58@115, T04Z is here, still in beta!
92 r32 gtst daily

Old rides: 04 zze123r, 98 ae111r, 92 ep82gt, 92 sw20r, 00 ncp10r, 91 uzz31, 84 Ma61, 88 gz20, 90 jza70, 90 jza70 aerotop
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