looks ok, i just went to toyota n brought the double din fascia for $50
I've had nothing but trouble trying to get a double din kit. If I can get one from Toyota i'll be stoked. Do you know what the part number is for the Toyota kit? Did that include brackets? Cheers
Thanks for the quick reply. I am also putting in a 7 inch screen so im guessing I will have to do pretty much what you have done. did it take much work to get it all right? I've been trying to get a aftermarket kit from the U.S but they won't send overseas.
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 4010 Location: Perth, WA
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:11 pm Post subject:
Do you know much about screens these days chappo?
My xenarc is playing up like a mofo these days.. I literally need to whack it and it comes good.
I stripped it and checked as much as I could check and found nothing that seemed loose, put it back together and it was good for a few days and has since returned to playing up. It's driving me up the wall but at ~$700 or whatever I payed for it, buying a replacement at this stage is not what I want to be spending money on. _________________
1994 Black JZS147 Aristo - RIP. Went swimming
New 1992 Aristo Project
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 4010 Location: Perth, WA
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:36 pm Post subject:
It is. ^
I've done the ribbon cable already It was lame and rubbed on the metalsliding mechanism to the point where it was shorting out some of my colour channels. I tried to ask Xenarc for another one and they were very helpful over email, but reluctant to source their ribbon part and send it out so I went and measured up and ordered my own directly from an electronics wholesaler and installed it.
I'm quite sure it's not the ribbon cable this time (unless it's one of the internal ribbon cables between the actual screen and main PC board).
What happens is when I switch it on (with the button on the unit), the little green light won't go on, only the backlight will come on, but there is nothing displayed on the screen. Then it sits there for 2 seconds like it should, and decides there is no input signal and switches the backlight off (powersaving mode). Only the whole time, the green light isn't on, and the actual display crystals arn't doing anything. It doesn't display the normal "no input. powering off" at all, there's just nothing at all coming on screen.
After a few power-off, power-on's, sometimes it will come good, sometimes not. Other times I tilt the screen forward about 45degrees and let it spring back and whack against the climate control, which often makes it come good.
Even when it's going well, sometimes it will get 'stuck' with the on-screen-display-info-box-thing showing the resolution (which it should only do for 2secs when it first 'tunes in' on the vga signal).
I should add, when the screen is outputting properly, the green light comes on properly. Also, regardless of if it gets stuck there or not, even when it looks like it's working fine, the second you push the menu button to bring up the on-screen-menu, the thing has an internal sorta 'crash' and the display freezes, and you gotta turn it off and back on cos it's dead. (the display fades away, leaving only the backlight shining through).
At all times, the touchscreen works flawlessly, and the backlight-adjustment from light->dark works fine.
It sounds to me like some kind of fuckup in the actual vga converting display core. But it all "looks" OK on the PCB. And the fact that it "comes good" with a whack makes me unsure of what the issue is. _________________
1994 Black JZS147 Aristo - RIP. Went swimming
New 1992 Aristo Project
There is no bulging on any of the capacitors is there?
If it is a dry joint you could try placing the control boards in an oven on 60 deg C for a little while to let the solder melt and then reform (Try this at your own will obviously). I don't know if it will fix the controller board but it has been known to work on graphics cards.
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 4010 Location: Perth, WA
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:01 pm Post subject:
That's what I pulled it apart for.. checking all the components for bulging / scorch marks from overheating / etc. - Found nothing that looked out of place.
It seems more likely to me it must be a loose connection somewhere. I've not heard of the oven idea before, is that well known as a potential fix for these types of things? By warming the solder up to let it flow back together and re-join? The last thing I want to do is make it worse by killing it entirely >_< _________________
1994 Black JZS147 Aristo - RIP. Went swimming
New 1992 Aristo Project
That's what I pulled it apart for.. checking all the components for bulging / scorch marks from overheating / etc. - Found nothing that looked out of place.
It seems more likely to me it must be a loose connection somewhere. I've not heard of the oven idea before, is that well known as a potential fix for these types of things? By warming the solder up to let it flow back together and re-join? The last thing I want to do is make it worse by killing it entirely >_<
It has been mentioned before on some overclocking forums - However I don't know how well it will work - It will depend on how the device has been soldered from factory.
Factory processes these days actually place the devices in large ovens to melt the solder and fix the components to the device.
I would probably hold off on doing that until you can afford to possibly replace it.
You can pick up the non-motorised screens fairly cheaply these days (<$300) - However they will be double din and I presume that you would also have a deck installed in the other slot?
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 4010 Location: Perth, WA
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject:
I am contemplating purchasing a new simple screen, pulling the control board and wiring it into the existing flip-out enclosure / power supply / etc. It should be fairly possible.. the current bit that's in the actual DIN unit has basically just a power adapter/regulator, then diverts all the other lines to the screen control board for the actual display/everything processing. Technically you should be able to rig it to work by doing a similar thing and bypassing the power regulator on the new screen. Though it's gonna be a right ol prick to get it all done, and I really don't know if I have the soldering skills to pull it off.
Alternatively I could mount the entire unit to the rails where the old screen used to sit.. >_< Hrmm.
It's so much hassle!
I am not currently using the other DIN, but I have plans for it that have never eventuated due to my lack of fabricating skills / time. Do you know where we can buy plastic bondo in this country? I can't find the stuff anywhere... _________________
1994 Black JZS147 Aristo - RIP. Went swimming
New 1992 Aristo Project
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