Racing Hart rim widen
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Stower93
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:23 pm    Post subject: Racing Hart rim widen Reply with quote

Just curious as to weather i can actually widen my rims. They are Racing Hart Type C and are 17x8 on the front and 17x9 on the rear. Im assuming they are a 3 or 2 piece rims because of the joint line around the inside of each where the bolts run through. Is it possible/ what would i have to buy and how easy can it be done? Be good if somebody can point me in the right direction so i can look into it further.



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simpo
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Racing Hart rim widen Reply with quote

Stower93 wrote:
Just curious as to weather i can actually widen my rims. They are Racing Hart Type C and are 17x8 on the front and 17x9 on the rear. Im assuming they are a 3 or 2 piece rims because of the joint line around the inside of each where the bolts run through. Is it possible/ what would i have to buy and how easy can it be done? Be good if somebody can point me in the right direction so i can look into it further.



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If there 3 peice it's easyer can just buy wider outer lip if there 2 peice much harder to source whole outer rim
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510ONE
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is possible but is not cheap at all.. there is a company in brisbane that can do it but its cheaper to buy newer wider wheels. around 500 each wheel iirc. ill see if i can get their name. but if you want decent wheels look at something like what greeny has the vorsten or whatever they are. very cheap for a decent wheel.
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been chasing around wider lips, it's fucking hard work to find anyone who can do it, as they pretty much have to be machined up. Would be interested in that QLD mobs details though, for future wheel plans Smile

Oh also, ya, the wheels I bought are pretty cheap, but you need to hate your guards to run em.
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Rusty P
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going through this at the moment too! Putting some outer lips on some 2nd hand rims I've sourced.

Rebarreling is best out of Asia / USA.

Once again, aussie companies suck ass at this.

It's really not that much work if you produced a number of them, but as there's basically no-one here who does it, they almost have to custom machine them every time, so they become very very expensive.
Theoretically they shouldn't cost more than ~$100 per outer lip or ~$150 for whole barrel. Plus some for disassembly/assembly, which can require some work as they're often sealed shut, and occasionally even welded shut.

I'm trying to source mine from the USA and just pay the shipping on em.. Aussie companies are useless at it as said. Though, welcome to try that Qld number too?
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Stower93
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i have got one wheel seperated. They are 3 piece. Have email Dr wheels on the gold coast and im waiting on a response.
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

*Subscribed*

Want to do this to a set of wheels too, interested in any leads, as everyone I speak to puts it in the too hard basket Sad
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Stower93
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tell me about greeny. A few people i spoke to a few months ago here in toowoomba said yeah we will get straight on it and ring you back with an answer. Never heard from them. You want something done right you got to do it yourself
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The worst thing, dad got offered a mill big enough to make stuff like this a few years ago, didn't take it Sad
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Rusty P
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not doing it to those Varrstoen's are you mate?
I thought they were 1piece cast, not 3pc forged items...???

Will be chasing this up firmly in the next week, as need to get mine done.
Got my new rims in my hands and I'm itching to get them on!
Mine are starting bigger and going massive though Razz
20x8.5 F 20x10 R going to add 1-1.5" on each.
the shitty thing is i cant just put the rears on the front as the inner barrels / offsets are way off! >_<

Will eventually end up with some 20" outers for sale probably!!
Just need to find the cheapest outer lips i can source. Some mobs in USA are saying $250 a corner! *cry*
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rusty P wrote:
Not doing it to those Varrstoen's are you mate?
I thought they were 1piece cast, not 3pc forged items...???

Will be chasing this up firmly in the next week, as need to get mine done.
Got my new rims in my hands and I'm itching to get them on!
Mine are starting bigger and going massive though Razz
20x8.5 F 20x10 R going to add 1-1.5" on each.
the shitty thing is i cant just put the rears on the front as the inner barrels / offsets are way off! >_<

Will eventually end up with some 20" outers for sale probably!!
Just need to find the cheapest outer lips i can source. Some mobs in USA are saying $250 a corner! *cry*


Veilside's, then sell the Varrstoen's.
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510ONE
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

totally forgot about this .... will check it out for you boys today and see if i can find that company
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Rusty P
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greeny wrote:

Veilside's, then sell the Varrstoen's.


++Like.
Where's the like button??
Very Happy
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rusty P wrote:
Greeny wrote:

Veilside's, then sell the Varrstoen's.


++Like.
Where's the like button??
Very Happy


Thinking 10" front with an 11-11.5" rear, both will still tuck Smile
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Rusty P
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.. you sure?

I've been crunching the numbers pretty heavily mate and you will need significant guard work to fit 10" front and 11.5" rear if you want to tuck.
Flush you will manage, but you need pulled/cut/flared guards for tuck in those sizes.
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rusty P wrote:
.. you sure?

I've been crunching the numbers pretty heavily mate and you will need significant guard work to fit 10" front and 11.5" rear if you want to tuck.
Flush you will manage, but you need pulled/cut/flared guards for tuck in those sizes.


ATM running 19 x 9.5 +22 fronts, and 19 x 10.5 +22.



Now the old wheels, before all the guard work we did to make my 19's fit, sat like this:



Should be able to add an inch front and back and still have them fit.
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Rusty P
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.. yeah and there's no way in hell those varrstoen's are tucked either.. that's like 3" off the ground mate Confused

if you're gonna run at that height , you will be able to manage 10" on front with a minor roll... but you'll need massive work to fit them tucked.

If that's what you're after then sure, yeah.. but not "tucked"...
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rusty P wrote:
.. yeah and there's no way in hell those varrstoen's are tucked either.. that's like 3" off the ground mate Confused

if you're gonna run at that height , you will be able to manage 10" on front with a minor roll... but you'll need massive work to fit them tucked.

If that's what you're after then sure, yeah.. but not "tucked"...


Sad Can't run lower, the kit gets smashed every time I go into the hills.

Trying to work out what the specs would be if I widen the old wheels.

Front - 18 x 9 +25 (inc a 5mm spacer to clear 4 Pot's)
Rear - 18 x 10 +37

If I widen the front by half an Inch on the outside, would end up being 18 x 9.5 + 19 (3mm out more than current wheels)
If I widen the front by an Inch on the outside, would end up being an 18 x 10 +12 (12mm out more than current wheels)

Adding half an inch would probably fit, but not much point really. Thinking about it now, because of the kinda crappy brake caliper clearance on these, probably can't widen the front. Can still run a 245/255 semi slick on that.

If I widen the rear by half an Inch on the outside, would end up being 18 x 10.5 + 31 (9mm in more than current wheels)

If I widen the rear by half an Inch on the outside, would end up being 18 x 11 + 24 (4mm out more than current wheels)

Either should still fit, but half an inch would probably be best. Would be able to run a 275/285 semi slick on that easy enough.

Another thought is, if I added another inch on it, then got the back of it machined as much as I can, should be able to get them in as much as the current wheels. But..... 3" of dish, and an 11 is pretty cool. Would then still be stuck with like a 255 on them though Sad

Too many options, most of them a pain in the ass Razz
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Rusty P
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just fitted a 20x10 on the front to see how it would go, and while sitting ON the upright (so would need to be offset more to fit - ie spacers) it still stuck outside the guard such that you would never be able to tuck it without cut+welded/flared guards.
So yeah, 9 or 9.5 is most i would push the fronts if you wanted wider.. try testing your rear 18x10's on the front and see what I mean Razz

Fronts:
Doing the math.. your 18x9's are -139mm on inside and 89mm outside.
There's about another half inch on the inside.. around 150mm til you hit the upright.
But assuming you're not changing the inner lips, then that extra half inch is not available

So just on the outside, you're at +89mm, there's only about 105mm there with a roll, up to about 115mm with pulls/etc, so thats about 15-20mm before you can't fit under the guard anymore. If you added a full inch more lip you'll really be struggling... half an inch will put your +89 to +102 which will fit comfortably.. but as you said, unless you've the lips spare there's not much point?? A full inch will put you to +114 which is VERY tight, and you'd need to really stretch tyre to fit. Then you're in the shit if the popo pull you over as you'd be well outside the guards Sad

Rears:
18x10 +37 are -164mm inside and +90mm outside
Once again, there's a good 180mm on the inside before you hit the coilover (depends on coilie), so you've got room there.
On the outside it depends on the extent of the rear guard work. Unfortunately a roll will only get you to about +115mm, and you need it actually cut and welded to get more as the panel just wont bend any more without warping. Still you've got basically a full inch there. You won't be able to tuck but you can flush fit which is still very nice Smile A full inch more rear lip will be +115mm outside which will look nice imo. See how you go?? As you said, machining the rear of the disc you may be able to bring them inside more taking advantage of the extra room there.
The other thing to look at is if you can put your old rear lips on the fronts. If so, might save you some $$ Smile
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Greeny
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rusty P wrote:
I just fitted a 20x10 on the front to see how it would go, and while sitting ON the upright (so would need to be offset more to fit - ie spacers) it still stuck outside the guard such that you would never be able to tuck it without cut+welded/flared guards.
So yeah, 9 or 9.5 is most i would push the fronts if you wanted wider.. try testing your rear 18x10's on the front and see what I mean Razz

Fronts:
Doing the math.. your 18x9's are -139mm on inside and 89mm outside.
There's about another half inch on the inside.. around 150mm til you hit the upright.
But assuming you're not changing the inner lips, then that extra half inch is not available

So just on the outside, you're at +89mm, there's only about 105mm there with a roll, up to about 115mm with pulls/etc, so thats about 15-20mm before you can't fit under the guard anymore. If you added a full inch more lip you'll really be struggling... half an inch will put your +89 to +102 which will fit comfortably.. but as you said, unless you've the lips spare there's not much point?? A full inch will put you to +114 which is VERY tight, and you'd need to really stretch tyre to fit. Then you're in the shit if the popo pull you over as you'd be well outside the guards Sad

Rears:
18x10 +37 are -164mm inside and +90mm outside
Once again, there's a good 180mm on the inside before you hit the coilover (depends on coilie), so you've got room there.
On the outside it depends on the extent of the rear guard work. Unfortunately a roll will only get you to about +115mm, and you need it actually cut and welded to get more as the panel just wont bend any more without warping. Still you've got basically a full inch there. You won't be able to tuck but you can flush fit which is still very nice Smile A full inch more rear lip will be +115mm outside which will look nice imo. See how you go?? As you said, machining the rear of the disc you may be able to bring them inside more taking advantage of the extra room there.
The other thing to look at is if you can put your old rear lips on the fronts. If so, might save you some $$ Smile


The plan was old rear lips on the front, but they are 1" wider, so don't think It will work, so best case scenario is we find a place that can do the work, and I add an inch to the rear end. Would be pretty cool, but all in all, not thinking it would be worth it.

So plans are sorta becoming either, sell the 18" Veilside' s as is, and keep the 19" Varrstoen's. Sell the Varrstoen's and keep the Veilside's. Or sell both, and buy something else.
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